NAVIGATING MAHARASHTRA’S FASHION LANDSCAPE THROUGH TIME AND MEDIA
Maharashtra is a state located in the western part of India with a rich historical background. The history of Maharashtra tells us how it was ruled by various dynasties including Maurya’s, Rashtrakutas, Satvahanas, and their contributions towards the art and architecture of the state of Maharashtra. One of the major parts of the Medieval History of Maharashtra was the Maratha Empire. It is known for its administration and military prowess and many festivals and traditions in Maharashtra are due to the influence of the Maratha Empire. During British rule, Maharashtra was a part of Mumbai (Bombay) presidency. On 1st May 1960, the state of Maharashtra was formed.
The concept of history repeating and evolving is a complex one. It is often said that history repeats itself, but it is more accurate to say that history evolves. The past is never the same as the present, and the present is never the same as the future. However, there are often similarities between different periods of history, and these similarities can be used to understand the present and predict the future.
In the context of Maharashtra’s state and culture, we can see how history has evolved over time. The state has a rich cultural heritage that has been shaped by its history. The influence of the Maratha Empire can still be seen in many aspects of Maharashtra’s culture, including its festivals and traditions. At the same time, Maharashtra has also evolved over time, and its culture has been influenced by many other factors, including globalisation and modernization.
Clothing, accessories, jewellery, and footwear are an integral part of any culture, and they play a significant role in reflecting the rich cultural heritage of Maharashtra. Traditional Indian fashion accessories have a unique advantage regarding fashion accessories. Indians do not have to worry about whether their accessories go with their dress or keep up with the current trends in the fashion world. All they must do is adapt their traditional accessories to go with their attire! And ta da! They will be standing out of the crowd.
Historical Overview of Maharashtra’s Fashion:
CLOTHING
Female Clothing-
Sarees, a centuries-old staple in Indian culture, remain a beloved choice for women, reflecting both heritage and dynamic fashion trends. This article delves into the resurgence of historical fashion, with a focus on Maharashtrian traditions. The revival of 1940s aesthetics, particularly khadi and cotton sarees, sparks intrigue. Post this era, India embraced diverse fabrics like Banarasi and Kanjivaram, offering a range of choices. Present-day saree designs balance traditional and minimalist styles, appealing to changing preferences. Despite this evolution, the practice of wearing sarees for special occasions persists in every Maharashtrian household, preserving a timeless cultural thread.
Nauvari: The classic since old times-
As the name suggests, the Nauvari saree is a nine-yard drape, which distinguishes it from the more common six-yard saree. Its history can be traced back to the Maratha Empire, where it was the traditional attire of Marathi women, especially the warrior class. It was not merely a piece of clothing, but a symbol of their strength and resilience. You must have seen the historical movies and series where ladies from the royal family wear a blouse, a nauvari saree, and a shawl. The classification can be done as follows: the royal family used to wear a nauvari made of silk, rich cotton, or khan, whereas the general public used to wear a khan or cotton saree with a blouse made of the same fabric called ‘choli’.
When it comes to designs, Nauvari sarees are adorned with intricate motifs, borders, and pallus. Traditional patterns like the paithani weave, Kolhapuri borders, and gold zari work are commonly found, adding a touch of regal elegance to the attire.
People in urban areas are still wearing the nauvari, and the Maharashtrian wedding themes are also making us wear the nauvari saree with all the jewelry and accessories to complete the full attire. There are so many ways of wearing the nauvari, such as the Kashta saree, the Brahmni-style nauvari, and peshwai. Now the young generation is also wearing a nauvari saree, but in their style, there’s a contemporary dhoti drape, there’s a devsena saree, and this all can be done with a six-yard saree too. Other than draping the six- or nine-yard saree, people stitch the sarees, i.e., ready-to-wear sarees. Old trends are repeating, and people are showing their creativity most beautifully. Embracing your roots and adhering to the traditions followed by younger generations is a blessing. Authentic and contemporary nauvari saree styles are seen in plays, weddings, festive occasions, and dance performances too.
Bridging tradition and modernity in Sahavari sarees-
The traditional Sahavari saree is a staple of Maharashtrian culture and is often worn to weddings and other important occasions. Sahavari sarees have adapted to the times by incorporating modern design elements while keeping its traditional aesthetic. Designers are seen combining elegance and tradition to create modern spins on Sahavari sarees. Traditional Sahavari sarees often adhere to traditional colour schemes & golden borders, whereas modern Sahavari sarees could explore with a wider range of colours and patterns. Individuals can showcase their unique sense of style by creatively designing the modern Sahavari saree. There are sewn sarees in floral, butti, and other motifs in addition to the stitched sarees as well as brocade sarees. In addition, mul cotton, cotton silk, cotton linen, and much more are now available for the widely worn cotton sarees.
A clothing piece to which we never said goodbye-
While Nauvari sarees, or normal sarees, remain deeply rooted in tradition, they have also evolved to cater to modern tastes. Sarees these days come in trendy colors, fusion designs, and lighter fabrics. They are hand-painted and hand-embroidered, making them suitable for a wider range of events. This adaptation has allowed the saree tradition in India to transcend regional boundaries and gain popularity across India and even globally.
A saree is more than just a piece of clothing. Whether you’re a Maharashtrian or simply appreciate the beauty of Indian traditions, a saree is a timeless addition to any wardrobe. So, embrace the elegance of a saree and celebrate the heritage it represents, one drape at a time.
Celebrities and influencers are doing a great job of making us aware of our traditions, but in a more classy way. #sareeaesthetics is all we care about. In college, family functions, social events, or on social media, people do wear and post their pictures wearing traditional attire, but are they doing it for the sake of wearing fashionable attire or do they care about our culture and tradition?
Men’s Traditional Clothing-
If we go back in time, the men back then used to wear a dhotar (dhoti), a cotton bandi (inner west), and a gongahdi (shawl), which has now evolved into jeans, t-shirts, and jackets; this is for the general public. Men from the royal family used to wear an angarkha, similar to the anarkali and the women’s angarkha kurta. This angarkha was pleated and worn like a jacket, paired with a ‘churidar’ as trousers. Additionally, they adorned a’shela’ (shawl) and a feta or pagdi, which could be replaced with stitched feta or caps, such as the Maharashtrian topi.
The influence of British rulers changed our clothing style to wearing a coat, so you see the upper class back then wearing a coat on a dhoti. Then it shifted to a full suit and a pant shirt. The 90s was an era of wearing baggy clothes, be they sweaters, shirts, or t-shirts. I feel that era is back in trend as men have started wearing baggy clothes.
Designers who are doing the magic-
The Peshawai style is also back in trend; you see Peshawai-style weddings, and people are truly enjoying it. Our history inspires designers to create wonderful designs in men’s and women’s clothing. There is handwork in kurtis, sarees, blouses, shawls, and whatnot. Nowadays, you have the choice of customizing all this, and there are many options for designs, patterns, colors, and sizes.
ACCESSORIES AND JEWELLERY
Female Accessories and Jewellery-
Though Maharashtrian women still wear a few pieces of Maharashtrian jewelry on a daily basis, there are few traditional pieces on special occasions. We will have a look at a few of those jewelry pieces.
- Thushi is a unique chocker-style necklace. Thushi uses a mesh of strings and finely woven gold beads in various sizes to create layers. The adjustable dori on this choker necklace allows you to customize the length of the necklace to fit the size of your neck.
- Another classic choker-style pearl necklace known as a Chinchapeti.
- A silk-braided string holds a few round gold coins that belong to Putli Haar. It is sometimes referred to as a temple necklace or coin necklace. The goddess Lakshmi, a representation of riches, is adorned on the coins, and that is why it is also called a Lakshmi haar.
- Round gold beads make up the Mohan mala. It adds a touch of refinement to a Marathi woman’s overall appearance. A tanmani is a choker necklace made of layers of pearl strands and a pendant set with stones.
- One of the most well-known types of traditional Maharashtrian jewelry is Kolhapuri saaj.
- Tode are the gold kadas, or bracelets, crafted from 23-carat gold.
- Vaaki is another name for an armlet or bajuband. Traditionally worn on both arms, Maharashtrian ladies only wear this piece of jewelry on one arm nowadays due to modernity and changing fashion trends.
- A nath is a gold nose ornament worn by women. Nath, or “Karwari Nath,” is very popular among the Marathi Mulkhans of Maharashtra but now naths get changed into different nose rings with different designs.
- Jodavi is considered a symbol of being married, which is why every woman wears nettles between two or three toes of both her feet. Nowadays, married women prefer to wear designer toe rings with different styles.
Male Accessories and Jewellery-
- Men prominently wear big Kadas, which are also seen being worn as anklets. Nowadays, along with the Kadas, men regularly wear bracelets made of gold, silver, beads, crystals, etc.
- Afterward, a golden chain came into the picture, and Maharajas were also seen wearing long necklaces. Now, men wear jewelry on special occasions like weddings and festivals.
- A wristwatch came into the picture after a very long time, and a speedy revolution is observed in that. Metal, fiber, and leather watches are used, and now there’s a digital watch too.
- A unique earring created for men is the “Bhikbali,” made of pearls and paired with a small pendant. The Peshwas used to wear it in the right ear, and it is now a trend!
Evolution of Fashion in Maharashtra Today:
Female Fashion Trends-
- Bindis constitute an integral aspect of an Indian woman’s wardrobe, enhancing the allure of her face. Traditionally associated with married women, bindis are thought to bring prosperity and well-being. Available in a myriad of styles, ranging from a subtle black dot to intricate arrangements of Swarovski crystals, sparkles, and various matte shades, bindis have transformed into a fashion statement, captivating women even in the West.
- Jhumkas or balis serve as earrings that set Indian women apart, elevating their beauty in a distinctive way unmatched by other earrings. Versatile and elegant, they effortlessly complement various outfits, from skirts and kurtas to palazzos, draw-string pants, tunics, tees, and jeans.
- Bangles represent the epitome of Indian style, infusing tradition into modern looks. Crafted from diverse materials such as glass, gold, silver, ivory, shell, and wood, bangles symbolize femininity. The unique sound they produce adds to their charm, irreplaceable by any other.
- Jootis, ethnic handmade shoes and hand-embroidered ballet flats, inject vibrancy into attire. Originally worn with traditional clothing, jootis have become a popular choice for everyone, offering comfort and ease of movement. For those passionate about footwear, jootis deserve a place in the wardrobe to embellish one’s feet.
In summary, the cultural tapestry of Maharashtra, woven through its rich history and cinematic influences, unveils a fascinating journey through time. From the Maratha Empire’s enduring impact on festivals and traditions to the evolution of clothing and accessories, Maharashtra’s cultural identity remains resilient. The classic Nauvari saree, a symbol of strength, transcends eras with contemporary adaptations, showcasing creativity and heritage. Similarly, men’s fashion witnesses a revival of historical styles, and designers breathe life into traditional and modern clothing. We see modern kurtas, shirts in vibrant colors and prints. There are narrow bottom pants, cargos replacing the dhotis. The men’s jewellery on the other hand, has rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings and nose pins/rings for a surprise too. The intricate details of Maharashtrian jewelry, from the Thushi necklace to Kolhapuri saaj, reflect a timeless elegance. The evolution of fashion in Maharashtra today embraces bindis, jhumkas, bangles, and jootis, seamlessly blending tradition with modernity. This exploration of Maharashtra’s fashion landscape exemplifies a dynamic cultural thread, connecting the past, present, and future.